So now I meditate on this hill connected with the vast web laid across the desert, too dense to read the greater message but sensitive enough to enjoy the energy bath. A few miles away on the grid are the pyramids of Cahuachi. A complex of temples that show signs of at times hosting some 50,000 pilgrims. Just recently a Nasca native had taken me there and we shall be returning with an elder to invoke again the ancient ceremonies. That their ancestors came through the desert on foot attests to the amount of respect they had for the power of this place. Me too, I am a far traveled pilgrim and am feeling well rewarded for my efforts. The natives on the bus also seemed pleased by my pilgrimage.
Behind me shines Cerro Blanco. All around are the stark dark hills of rock sun baked black with a desert varnish. Unique, Cerro Blanco the white mountain tops the hills of it's black base with a massive dune of pale sand rising 4,000 ft. above the desert floor. The sand of the dune mountain is deposited by strong winds from the coast. Five years ago the Grandmother of the Nasca family that I was staying with told me that Cerro Blanco is the most powerful and sacred of the mountains overlooking the Nasca lines. A natural pilgrim and a sucker for sacred sites at first light I set my sandals in those sands. In the cool of the morning the sand was deliciously warm so the sandals soon came off, a barefoot pilgrimage is one truly in touch. The pureness of the dune mountain was broken only by scattered shards of pottery left by pilgrims of ages past. The ceremonial vessels usually carried chicha, corn beer, or sea water carried laboriously from far, honoring where the ancestors and Wiracochas came from. The pots were broken as part of the offering. One native told me of their ancestors' practice of mixing gold dust into the clay of their ceramics and on the sacred mountain I saw much gold fleck in the shards.
The heat rose with the day. Nearing the peak, for fun I jumped far off a crest onto a steep sand slope but the dune had been faced to the sun since the day's first rays and I sank up over my ankles in sand that was way too hot. There ensued a desperate shuffle slog as fast as I could across the unstable dune face, backsliding half as much as I gained in most unchristian manner. When finally I cleared the hot side the dance continued as I hopped about on my sand scorched feet. When I stopped there right before my toasted toes lay a four directional cross carved in white stone, nearly invisible in the pale sand. Perhaps my stomping around had unearthed it, how long ago had some pilgrim offered it to the mountain? Then came a condor, he completely circled giving me the eye, at eye level from just a few yards away. Well this certainly seemed like a good time to pay attention to the signs but while enjoying being awestruck, until later I didn't know what all this meant.
Then on the peak I enjoyed hours of prayer, meditation and sacred dance. As I finished there came a large dragonfly and to make itself clear it repeatedly got right in my face. That one I understood as a reaffirmation of the magic I had been involved in with a woman of the Yaqui tribe in Arizona. That one was easy because she had told me that it would be the dragonfly, still it was astonishing that the connection would choose this moment to assert itself. When reading signs we especially pay attention when things act out of character. Here I was high on mountain peak deep in the dry, dry desert, that water loving dragonfly had traveled some unusual distance to deliver it's message.
Begging your forgiveness dear reader, the full scope of that message needs to be another story for another time. For now let me say that the signs of great change and greater hope are upon us.
As for the descent, have you ever enjoyed jumping down a sand dune? Imagine this recently highly inspired nature's child jump/skip/slide tumbling down, rolling in peals of my laughter for four thousand feet. Some fun!
That night I told Grandmother about the cross and condor and she was delighted. She said that the four-directional cross is pre-Colombian. With the condor the sacred White Mountain had shown it's acceptance, that I belong there. Soon after I was taken into the Bolivian mountains of the Kallawaya magicians and I learned that the white cross is the magic symbol of the traveler's protection. Goodly and rightful magic as I have lived in nearly continuous pilgrimage since.
Like this day, deliciously hot thawing my winter froze' bones while the stark raving beauty of the desert thaws my thought frozen mind. So strongly do I feel the wordless imprint of the vast web of these Nasca lines. Changes, changes, from here, senses enhanced I can smell them coming. In geometric beauty they are radiating out from the core of the earth, from the core of this hill. In agreement, mirroring the message of the stars the lines grounding on earth the consciousness of the cosmos beyond our skies.
Whoa, the little pilgrim is getting a bit too far out, so cosmic it's comic. I had better pull it in before I get too real or something and spoil the game. Yeah, I'm going to get off this hill and take a walk to try to get lined out.
Chao for now! |